Here’s my recap for framing the basement. It’s probably a good thing I’m writing this a few weeks after the actual work, because it wasn’t as easy a chore as I would have thought.
In a previous life I rough framed houses, so framing is probably what I’m best at when it comes to home DIY projects. Had I chose to use wood framing I’m sure partitioning the basement would have been uneventful. Well because of my concerns with flooding down there, should the sump pump ever fail, I was leery to use pine 2×4’s that could become water-logged and moldy in a water event. There’d be the risk that I’d have to rip everything out and start over if that ever happened.
I could use all pressure treated lumber, which would be impervious to rot, but I was thinking of a more contemporary solution.
I knew about steel framing, having seen it used at my corporate job. It seemed like that might be a good option: use galvanized steel framing. If it got wet it wouldn’t rot, mold or rust. So I did my homework.
From what I gathered steel framing would be less expensive and go up as quickly as lumber. You can’t use it for structural walls, but none of my basement walls are structural. They just have to hold up drywall. Steel framing is also resistant to fire, which is a good thing around mechanical systems. And steel is 100% recyclable, so it’s a good choice from an environmental standpoint.
I got a quote for having someone else install the walls, but I decided to try to save some money, as well as learn a new skill by doing it myself. Here is an article from The Family Handyman magazine that explains how to install the steel studs (click here). I’ll let you look and learn on your own. Instead of going through the steps again, I’ll hit on my thoughts and highlights regarding using steel framing (compared to wood framing).
From what I read steel was supposed to be cheaper but I’m not sure that’s the case. If anything it’s a wash. Studs were $4.17 for 10′ lengths. Pressure treated wood is more. Regular pine / fir is less. I looked at both Lowe’s and Home Depot and both stores had steel in stock for similar prices. I bought at Lowe’s because I get a discount there.
Fastener wise you have to buy screws, four per stud. That cost is likely the same as nails so that’s a wash. The same goes for the floor anchor bolts.
Advantage: it’s a draw
Steel is great because it’s straight and light weight. I did the entire project single-handedly. I’m not sure I could have done wood alone. Also we haul materials on the roof rack of the RAV4. Lightweight steel means more studs per trip to Lowe’s. Wood is renewable. Steel is recyclable, fire resistant and doesn’t rust*.
(*make sure you get galvanized steel. I bought mine at Lowe’s and I’m almost certain it’s not galvanized, other than one batch of studs. I asked the associates on two occasions and they said the product I was buying was galvanized but I’m pretty sure it’s not. What I got will likely rust over time potentially. I’ll keep an eye on it (I have access to nearly all the walls from the back side via mechanical rooms).)
Wood is easy. Measure and cut. Steel studs are a pain in the ass to cut to length. Our ceilings are 9′ tall. Turns out the holes for electrical wires to go through the stud fall right at 9′ from the end of our 10′ studs. So I had to cut each stud two times.
Actual installation was nothing short of maddening. A drill holster is an absolute necessity since you have to screw each stud four times, twice each top and bottom into metal channels. You also have to clamp the stud to the track every time you go to fasten a screw. I nearly had the entire basement framed before I learned that you just gotta jam the drill on full blast and hope the screw bites.
The worst part is trying to fasten a screw where the track butts up against an obstacle such as the I-beam running down the center of the basement. I finally figured out you need to install the fastener from the inside of the stud, not the outside, first. Then do the subsequent other fastener on the other side of the stud, from the outside.
Steel stud install easily took 2-3 times longer than wood would have.
Steel studs can’t bear weight. So if you’re going to hand cabinets or shelves you likely have to frame those areas with wood. Doorways need to be trimmed in wood anyway because finish trim won’t attached to steel unless you use decorative small profile head screws. I plan on putting in a barn door for the storage room and I know I’ll have to block the heck out of that area to support a sliding door.
For electrical, my electrician is saying steel will cost more because of the boxes and whatnot that he’ll have to use. Also I’ll need to block in with wood mounting points for outlets and more.
Steel is great for partitions but not much else. By the way, all my soffits are made from wood, as well as the ceiling in the bathroom.
So it’s no surprise that I can’t recommend steel framing for any project. I love the look, and steel is definitely easier if you’re working all by yourself, like I invariably am. I suppose the learning curve is there: I now know what to look for and I’ve made many of the mistakes. But regardless I probably should have just stuck with lumber, even if I used pressure treated sole plates and risked wet wall studs.
Check out my photos below for more info and details.
Shoot me any questions in the comments section.
The basement before the project starts.
Buying lumber at Lowe’s. Steel studs come in handy 10 packs if you’re lucky.
My favorite wood fasteners in the whole world, SPAX. I can only find them at Home Depot. For the steel studs I used metal fasteners.
We actually use our roof rack for hauling lumber like it’s designed to do.
My helper really is no help when framing a basement
Buy yourself one of these holsters, or buy one for the handy person in your life. I love it. Most useful tool I own.
Simple anchor bolt secures base track to the floor.
Laying down track, which looks similar to studs, but is a simple “C” shape. Pre- drill holes in the track, THEN use a masonry drill bit to drill anchor holes in the floor. Don’t use your masonry bit to go through metal – it’ll wear out fast.
Fastening steel studs is a multi step process that will surely drive you mad. Clamp, screw, repeat.
Make sure your level has hand holds for one man operation.
Progress. Once the tracks are in, the wall actually goes up quickly. Though the process is tedious.
The joint where a door header meets a door jamb. Future installments will show how I finish the door rough opening off.
Office area doorway framed in. You’ll noticed I doubled up a previously constructed wood wall in order to avoid some HVAC pipes by the ceiling.
I learned the hardware, fastening studs when there’s an obstruction on the back side is impossible. Here the I-beam is screwing me over royally.
The only way to fasten a stud when there’s an obstruction on the back side. Screw from the inside first, then fasten the other screw closest to you.
All my soffits are made from 2×4’s.
The basement ready for insulation and electrical.